Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
